At MAC he worked with and became lifelong friends with Don Thomas, Gordon Ingram and John Foote. and foreign customers at Mitch WerBell’s range near Powder Springs, Georgia. The kits were marketed world-wide by MAC, with Atchisson receiving a royalty for each unit that was sold.ĭuring his employment at MAC, Atchisson was able to demonstrate many of his prototype weapons for U.S. 22 caliber conversion kit for the AR-15 and M16 rifle. While at MAC he perfected his best-known product: the. Atchisson was hired as a project engineer for the Military Armament Corporation (MAC) in Marietta, Georgia. After a brief stint as an engineer at the Bendix Corporation, Mr. The new sear reduced the sear load from 100 to 10 pounds, thus allowing the system to utilize a smaller, lighter solenoid for remote operation of the weapon. While employed as a mechanical engineer at the Hughes Tool Company, he designed a gas system and buffer group for the Hughes 5.56mm caseless rifle, and a new type of cascading sear for the open-bolt 20mm aircraft cannon. While much of his inventing was performed on his own time, Atchisson worked for several large firearms manufacturing firms and contributed many ideas to experimental and production weapons. The idea behind this thinking was that his weapons could be manufactured from many existing surplus parts, and thus be inexpensively produced. A close examination of Atchisson’s prototype weapons will reveal a compilation of components from existing designs. Many of Atchisson’s ideas were ahead of their time, with several having commercial success. During his career he was granted twenty-four patents. Although not as well known as John Browning or Gene Stoner, Atchisson was a very talented inventor and designer of weapons. His superiors soon noticed his firearm acumen, which earned him a new position as a weapons instructor, conducting classes in automatic weapons characteristics, maintenance and firing techniques. He attended the University of Missouri and Kansas City Junior College. Take your time and it will turn out just fine.Maxwell G. Slice off excess glue, 180 sandpaper, 0000 steel wool, 4 coats of tung oil rubbed in, beauty again. You may also want to remove any dents in the stock with steam while you are at it, but this step is likely best done after gluing. Be careful to not round any edges along the crack. I use "Circa 1850" and maybe light sanding to start. If so, then the stock should have all of the finish removed before glue. I expect that you will fully refinish the stock. Glue should squeeze out with no holes left behind or they will have to be filled later. The wet glue will penetrate the surface pores and it will never take a stain or oil finish without flaws, no matter how much you sand it down. Wipe it with a dry cloth if you must (I wouldn't touch it), but do not use water. Very important, do not use water to remove glue that squeezes out! Let it dry and slice if off with a razor knife. Only remove the smallest amounts and only if needed to close it cleanly. You may have to remove small amount of material inside the pieces to get it to close up properly. For some applications, electrical tape stretched 50% with several layers will make a very effective clamp on ackward places. Next try out your clamps without glue to ensure they do not slip on curved surfaces and they effectively close the gaps. Gravity will drip it into the tight end so start there if you need to. If it is 2 pieces, easy, a crack must be spread to get the glue in. Any decent wood glue will work.īefore you place any glue, make sure you know how you will apply it effectively to all surfaces. Good old Elmer's will be stronger than the wood. The glue isn't as important as the application and clamping methods.
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